:root{--paper:#f8f5ec;--ink:#283b30;--secondary:#62695c;--olive:#68724f;--rust:#9b4f36;--line:#d9ddcd;--tag:#e9eddf;--water:#e7edf0;--land:#f9f7f0;--road:#d4d7cb;color-scheme:light;scroll-behavior:smooth}
*{box-sizing:border-box}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.6;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}a{color:inherit;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:4px}button{font:inherit;color:inherit;cursor:pointer}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--rust);outline-offset:5px}button,a{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}img{display:block;max-width:100%}.shell{width:min(1120px,calc(100% - 80px));margin-inline:auto}h1,h2,h3,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-weight:400}h1 em,h2 em{font-weight:400;color:var(--olive)}[id]{scroll-margin-top:24px}[hidden]{display:none!important}
.preview-bar{background:var(--ink);color:#f8f5ec;padding:6px 40px;display:flex;justify-content:center;gap:18px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.035em}.preview-bar span{opacity:.66}.site-header{min-height:104px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:24px}.wordmark{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:0;text-decoration:none;font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:22px;letter-spacing:-.7px;white-space:nowrap}.wordmark>span{font-size:16px;letter-spacing:.04em}.wordmark em{font-size:17px;letter-spacing:0;margin-left:14px;color:var(--olive)}nav{display:flex;gap:27px}nav a{text-decoration:none;font-size:13px}nav a:hover,nav a[aria-current]{text-decoration:underline}.menu-toggle{display:none}.eyebrow{font-size:10px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.16em;line-height:1.6;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--olive)}
.hero{padding-block:69px 74px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.18fr 1fr;gap:72px;align-items:center}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(48px,5.5vw,77px);line-height:1.07;letter-spacing:-3.5px;margin-top:18px}.hello{padding:9px 0 3px 33px;border-left:1px solid var(--line);max-width:410px}.hello .hello-heading{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:26px;margin-bottom:9px}.hello>p:not(.hello-heading){font-size:15px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--secondary)}.text-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding:4px 0;font-size:13px;line-height:1.7}.text-link:hover{color:var(--rust);border-color:var(--rust)}.hello .text-link{margin-top:18px}.section-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:24px}.section-top h2{font-size:40px;line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-1px;margin-top:6px}.section-intro{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;color:var(--secondary)}.places-section{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:34px}.vibe-filters{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:27px}.vibe-filters button{font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;padding:8px 14px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;background:transparent}.vibe-filters button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);border-color:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}.vibe-filters button:hover{border-color:var(--olive)}.place-feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.12fr 1fr;gap:44px;align-items:center}.place-photo{aspect-ratio:1.92;overflow:hidden;border-radius:3px}.place-photo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:center top;transition:transform .4s ease}.place-photo:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.place-copy{padding-right:20px}.location-line{color:var(--secondary);font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.03em}.location-line span{margin-inline:6px}.place-copy h3{font-size:38px;line-height:1.15;letter-spacing:-1px;margin:9px 0}.place-copy h3 a{text-decoration:none}.place-copy h3 a:hover{color:var(--rust)}.place-copy .place-deck{font-size:13px;font-style:italic;color:var(--olive);margin-bottom:12px}.place-copy>p:not(.place-deck):not(.location-line){font-size:14px;line-height:1.75;color:var(--secondary);max-width:350px}.place-copy .text-link{margin-top:15px}.collection-note{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:14px;color:var(--secondary);font-style:italic;margin-top:20px}
.map-section{padding-top:68px}.place-map{position:relative}.map-canvas{background:var(--water);position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:3px}.map-canvas>svg{width:100%;display:block}.map-land{fill:var(--land);stroke:#bfc7bb;stroke-width:.7}.map-road{fill:none;stroke:var(--road);stroke-width:.85}.map-label{fill:#757c72;font:12px Arial,sans-serif;paint-order:stroke;stroke:var(--land);stroke-width:3px;stroke-linejoin:round}.map-sea{fill:#7d8a8a;font:12px Georgia,serif;font-style:italic}.map-pin{position:absolute;border:0;border-radius:40px;padding:9px 14px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);font-size:12px;white-space:nowrap;transform:translate(-11px,-100%);box-shadow:0 3px 10px #26352e16}.map-pin>span{font-size:11px;margin-right:5px;color:#d6dfb7}.map-pin:hover{background:var(--rust)}.north{position:absolute;top:16px;right:19px;font-size:11px;color:#7a867e}.map-note{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding:19px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.map-note h3{font-size:24px;margin:4px 0}.map-note p{font-size:13px;color:var(--secondary)}.map-credit{font-size:10px;color:#757b70;margin-top:7px}.map-credit a{text-decoration:none}.map-error{padding:24px;border:1px solid var(--line)}.map-error a{color:var(--rust)}
.about-section{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:90px;margin-top:76px;padding-block:50px 60px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.about-lead h2{font-size:38px;line-height:1.18;letter-spacing:-1px;margin-top:11px}.about-lead>p:last-child{font-size:13px;color:var(--secondary);margin-top:18px;max-width:310px}.notebook-threads{padding-top:3px}.notebook-threads>div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:100px 1fr;gap:20px;padding-block:14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.thread-label{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:20px}.notebook-threads>div>p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;color:var(--secondary)}.hand-note{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-style:italic;color:var(--olive);font-size:18px;margin-top:26px}.site-footer{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:25px 30px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.footer-name{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:13px;text-decoration:none}.site-footer p{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:13px;font-style:italic;color:var(--olive)}.site-footer>span{font-size:10px;color:var(--secondary)}
.entry-main{padding-top:30px}.back-link{text-decoration:none;font-size:12px;color:var(--secondary);display:inline-flex;gap:10px;align-items:center}.back-link:hover{color:var(--rust)}.entry-heading{padding-block:35px 30px}.entry-heading h1{font-size:clamp(48px,6.3vw,82px);letter-spacing:-3px;line-height:1.12;margin:9px 0 19px}.title-dot{color:var(--rust)}.entry-tags{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.entry-tags a{font-size:11px;text-decoration:none;background:var(--tag);padding:5px 10px;border-radius:2px}.entry-tags a:hover{background:var(--line)}.entry-photo{margin:0}.entry-photo img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:2.2;object-fit:cover;object-position:center top;height:auto}.entry-photo figcaption{font-size:10px;color:var(--secondary);margin-top:7px;text-align:right}.entry-body{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr;gap:100px;padding-block:48px 40px;align-items:start}.entry-writing p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.85;margin-bottom:22px;max-width:620px}.entry-writing .entry-lead{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:30px;letter-spacing:-.35px;line-height:1.4;color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:22px}.entry-writing .entry-signature{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-style:italic;color:var(--olive);font-size:21px;margin-bottom:20px}.entry-writing .source-note{font-size:11px;color:var(--secondary);margin-bottom:0}.visit-note{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding:9px 0 7px 30px}.visit-note h2{font-size:31px;margin-top:7px;margin-bottom:15px;line-height:1.1}.visit-note>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px;color:var(--secondary);line-height:1.9}.solid-link{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;width:max-content;max-width:100%;padding:11px 16px;margin-top:23px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);font-size:12px;text-decoration:none;border-radius:3px}.solid-link:hover{background:var(--rust)}.subtle-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:13px;font-size:11px;color:var(--secondary);text-decoration:none}.subtle-link:hover{text-decoration:underline}.entry-map-section{padding-top:22px}.entry-map-section .section-top h2{font-size:32px}.entry-end{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-block:45px 50px;padding-top:25px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.entry-end>p{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:18px;font-style:italic;color:var(--olive)}
@media(min-width:1450px){.hero{padding-block:88px}.hero h1{font-size:86px}}
@media(max-width:850px){.shell{width:calc(100% - 48px)}.site-header{min-height:90px}nav{gap:19px}.wordmark em{display:none}.hero{gap:36px;padding-block:51px 57px}.hero h1{font-size:57px;letter-spacing:-2.6px}.hello{padding-left:25px}.hello .hello-heading{font-size:23px}.hello>p:not(.hello-heading){font-size:14px}.place-feature{gap:28px}.place-copy{padding-right:0}.place-copy h3{font-size:32px}.place-copy>p:not(.place-deck):not(.location-line){font-size:13px}.place-photo{aspect-ratio:1.91}.about-section{gap:45px}.notebook-threads>div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:6px}.entry-body{gap:45px}.entry-writing p{font-size:16px}.visit-note{padding-left:23px}.solid-link{gap:14px;padding-inline:12px}}
@media(max-width:600px){.shell{width:calc(100% - 36px)}.preview-bar{padding:6px 12px;font-size:10px;gap:12px}.site-header{min-height:78px;position:relative;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:0}.wordmark{font-size:21px}.wordmark>span{font-size:15px}.wordmark em{display:block;margin-left:12px;font-size:15px}.menu-toggle{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;border:0;background:transparent;font-size:12px;padding:14px 0 14px 14px}.menu-toggle>span{font-size:20px;line-height:1}nav{display:none;width:100%;padding:2px 0 21px;gap:0;justify-content:space-between}nav.open{display:flex}nav a{font-size:12px;padding:8px 0}.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;padding-block:42px 44px}.hero h1{font-size:60px;letter-spacing:-3px;margin-top:14px}.hello{padding:0 0 0 18px;max-width:none}.hello .hello-heading{font-size:23px;margin-bottom:6px}.hello>p:not(.hello-heading){font-size:14px;line-height:1.75}.hello .text-link{margin-top:13px}.section-top{align-items:start;gap:13px;margin-bottom:20px}.section-top h2{font-size:33px;letter-spacing:-.7px}.section-intro{font-size:11px;line-height:1.65;max-width:135px;padding-top:4px}.section-intro br{display:none}.places-section{padding-top:28px}.vibe-filters{gap:7px;margin-bottom:20px}.vibe-filters button{font-size:11px;padding:8px 11px}.place-feature{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.place-copy h3{font-size:36px;margin-top:8px}.place-copy>p:not(.place-deck):not(.location-line){max-width:none;font-size:14px}.place-copy .place-deck{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:9px}.place-copy .text-link{margin-top:13px}.collection-note{margin-top:25px;font-size:13px}.map-section{padding-top:47px}.map-note{align-items:start;flex-direction:column;gap:11px}.map-note h3{font-size:24px}.map-credit{font-size:9px}.about-section{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px;margin-top:47px;padding-block:34px 40px}.about-lead h2{font-size:35px}.about-lead>p:last-child{max-width:none;font-size:13px;margin-top:16px}.notebook-threads>div{grid-template-columns:100px 1fr;gap:18px}.thread-label{font-size:19px}.notebook-threads>div>p{font-size:12px}.hand-note{margin-top:22px}.site-footer{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:start;gap:8px 25px;padding-block:23px}.site-footer>span{width:100%;font-size:9px}.site-footer p{font-size:12px}.entry-main{padding-top:24px}.entry-heading{padding-block:26px 24px}.entry-heading h1{font-size:56px;letter-spacing:-2.5px;margin-bottom:16px}.entry-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.91}.entry-photo figcaption{text-align:left;font-size:9px}.entry-body{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:31px;padding-block:30px 30px}.entry-writing .entry-lead{font-size:28px;margin-bottom:16px}.entry-writing p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.8;margin-bottom:18px}.visit-note{padding:24px 0 0;border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.visit-note h2{font-size:29px}.visit-note>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:13px}.entry-map-section{padding-top:8px}.entry-map-section .section-top h2{font-size:29px}.entry-end{align-items:start;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;margin-block:29px 34px}.entry-end>p{font-size:17px}.eyebrow{font-size:9px}}
@media(max-width:350px){.wordmark em{display:none}.hero h1{font-size:52px}.section-top{flex-direction:column;gap:12px}.section-intro{max-width:none;font-size:12px}.section-intro br{display:none}.notebook-threads>div{grid-template-columns:1fr}.entry-heading h1{font-size:49px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){:root{scroll-behavior:auto}.place-photo img{transition:none}.place-photo:hover img{transform:none}}

/* A small, checked collection of places from the original reviews. */
.map-toolbar{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px;margin-bottom:15px;align-items:end}.map-toolbar label{font-size:11px;color:var(--secondary);display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:5px}.map-toolbar select{max-width:100%;font:inherit;font-size:13px;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);padding:9px 30px 9px 10px;border-radius:3px}.map-toolbar label:last-child{flex:1;min-width:190px}.map-toolbar .place-picker{width:100%}.map-summary{font-size:11px;color:var(--secondary);margin-bottom:10px}.map-canvas{isolation:isolate}.map-canvas>svg{touch-action:none}.map-land,.map-road{vector-effect:non-scaling-stroke}.map-pin-layer{position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none}.map-dot{position:absolute;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);width:32px;height:32px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border:2px solid var(--paper);border-radius:50%;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);font-size:12px;box-shadow:0 2px 5px #283b3022;pointer-events:auto;padding:0}.map-dot.is-cluster{font-size:12px;width:36px;height:36px}.map-dot:hover,.map-dot.is-selected{background:var(--rust);z-index:2}.map-dot:focus-visible{z-index:3}.map-navigation{position:absolute;right:12px;top:43px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:5px;z-index:4}.map-navigation button{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;min-width:35px;min-height:34px;padding:4px 7px;font-size:16px}.map-navigation button:last-child{font-size:10px}.map-note{align-items:start}.map-note-content{flex:1;min-width:0}.map-note-actions{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:start;gap:12px;min-width:160px;padding-top:4px}.map-note .pin-vibes{font-size:11px;color:var(--olive);margin:7px 0 14px}.map-note .pin-review-label{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--olive);margin-bottom:6px}.pin-review{font-size:14px;line-height:1.75;white-space:pre-line;margin:0;color:var(--secondary);max-width:710px}.map-note .pin-checked{font-size:10px;margin-top:15px;color:var(--secondary)}.pin-source{font-size:10px;color:var(--secondary)}.map-cluster-options{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:13px}.map-cluster-options button{font-size:12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;background:transparent;padding:8px 10px}.map-cluster-options button:hover{background:var(--tag)}.map-gesture-note{font-size:10px;color:var(--secondary);margin-top:9px}.map-load-note{font-size:12px;color:var(--secondary);padding:20px}
@media(max-width:600px){.map-toolbar{gap:11px}.map-toolbar label{width:100%}.map-toolbar select{width:100%;font-size:16px}.map-toolbar label:last-child{min-width:0}.map-note-actions{gap:10px;min-width:0;padding-top:0}.pin-review{font-size:13px}.map-note .pin-checked{font-size:10px}.map-gesture-note{font-size:10px}.map-dot{width:36px;height:36px}.map-dot.is-cluster{width:38px;height:38px}.map-navigation button{min-width:39px;min-height:39px}}
@media(pointer:coarse){.map-dot,.map-dot.is-cluster{width:42px;height:42px}}
.map-dot.is-named{width:auto;height:auto;min-height:34px;padding:7px 13px;white-space:nowrap;font-size:12px}

/* The list and map share the checked place collection. */
.places-section>.collection-note{margin:0 0 21px;font:12px/1.6 Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-style:normal;color:var(--secondary)}
.place-directory{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0 44px;margin-top:31px}
.place-record{min-width:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:24px 0 25px;align-self:start}
.place-record h3{font-size:28px;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.5px;margin:7px 0 8px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.record-vibes{font-size:11px;color:var(--olive);line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:10px}
.record-snippet{font-size:14px;line-height:1.75;color:var(--secondary);white-space:pre-line}
.record-review{margin-top:11px;font-size:12px;color:var(--secondary)}
.record-review summary{cursor:pointer;min-height:30px;line-height:1.8;padding:3px 0;color:var(--ink)}
.record-review blockquote{margin:10px 0 0;padding:0 0 0 14px;border-left:1px solid var(--line);white-space:pre-line;font-size:14px;line-height:1.75}
.record-links{display:flex;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:9px 23px;margin-top:13px}
.record-links .text-link{font-size:12px}
.record-maps-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;font-size:11px;color:var(--secondary);text-decoration:none;min-height:30px}
.record-maps-link:hover{text-decoration:underline;color:var(--rust)}
@media(max-width:600px){.place-directory{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0;margin-top:27px}.place-record{padding-block:22px}.place-record h3{font-size:27px}.record-snippet,.record-review blockquote{font-size:13px}.record-links{gap:8px 25px}.places-section>.collection-note{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:20px}}
@media(pointer:coarse){.record-links a,.record-review summary{min-height:44px}}